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The Favourite Madrid Hated Until He Died

Rodrigo Calderón, Marquis of Siete Iglesias, was the most loathed man in Spain. On October 21, 1621 he was beheaded in the Plaza Mayor, and the crowd that came to jeer is said to have turned.

Evidence: moderate · Sourced: two or more sources, at least one beyond Wikipedia.

For years Rodrigo Calderón was the face of everything Madrid believed was rotten about the court of Philip III. He was born in Antwerp in 1576, the son of a soldier of the Spanish Netherlands, and in 1598 he became secretary to the Duke of Lerma, the king’s all-powerful favourite. Where Lerma went, Calderón followed, and with him came the titles: Count of Oliva, Marquis of Siete Iglesias, a place in the royal chamber. The public assumed that his fortune had been squeezed out of the state and out of anyone who stood in his way. By the time Lerma fell in 1618, Calderón had no friends left to speak for him.

The Horror

When Lerma was pushed from power in 1618, partly by his own son, the Duke of Uceda, the man who had sheltered Calderón could no longer do so. The date of the arrest is where the sources part company. One page on Wikipedia gives January 1621. A Spanish source places it on the night of February 20, 1619, at his palace in Valladolid, followed by imprisonment at Montánchez castle and then in Madrid. That earlier date fits the “long trial of 1619” described by a Spanish publisher and a later report of torture in January 1620, so the January 1621 date looks wrong. The case therefore dragged on for roughly two years, not one.

The charges were a mixture of the political and the lurid. There was corruption, and there was witchcraft. When Queen Margaret of Austria died in childbirth in October 1611, rumour held that Calderón had bewitched her. The accusation was never proved, and he denied it. Under torture he is said to have confessed to one killing, that of a soldier named Francisco de Juaras in 1614, whom he described as a pander. A confession obtained that way proves little, though the sources lean towards thinking he was involved. He denied everything else.

He appears to have held on to some hope of a pardon until March 1621, when the bells tolled for Philip III. One old reference work reports his reaction as “He is dead, and I too am dead”. It is a single, hedged source, and the line is given as reported, not as verified. Ordering his execution was among the first acts of the new reign of Philip IV, and the sentence was carried out in the Plaza Mayor of Madrid on October 21, 1621.

Here the record is thin, and some of the best-known detail cannot be confirmed from the available sources. The sources agree that it was a public beheading, which was the death reserved for a man of rank, in place of the hanging a commoner would have had. They agree that the occasion was enormous: a contemporary, Andrés de Almansa y Mendoza, called it “the most famous day this century has seen”. The only traceable account of his bearing says that he met his death firmly and with a show of piety, and that his composure, together with his broken and prematurely aged appearance, turned public feeling in his favour. His wife’s devotion is also said to have softened the hatred he had aroused.

Popular retellings add a good deal more: a black-draped scaffold, a vast crowd, a hundred thousand witnesses. None of these is supported by a source consulted, so they are left out. Whatever the numbers, the central claim is well enough attested. A man who had been hated for years was, at the end, admired for how he died.

A cult followed, according to Wikipedia: people competed for relics, scraps of cloth stained with his blood. That is the hunger of a crowd that had watched an enemy become something close to a martyr.

The Proverb, and Where It Is Shaky

The story’s afterlife is a Spanish saying, “tener más orgullo que don Rodrigo en la horca”, more pride than Don Rodrigo on the gallows. It is used of someone who carries himself with haughty dignity, and it is traditionally linked to Calderón’s last moments. That origin is repeated by modern Spanish writers, but no contemporary source ties the phrase to him, so it should be read as tradition. The saying has a built-in puzzle, noted by two of the sources: Calderón was beheaded, not hanged. Why the proverb says “horca” is not explained in any source. Some English-language retellings also say he was hanged, which conflicts with the Spanish accounts that stress the beheading.

The Modern Relic

The Plaza Mayor is still there, enclosed by its tall uniform façades and ringed by cafés. It was built as a stage for royal proclamations, festivals and executions, and it is now one of the busiest tourist squares in Europe. Nothing in it marks Calderón; the scaffold is long gone, and no confirmed plaque commemorates him.

His body is said to lie elsewhere. A Spanish source places his tomb, beside that of his wife Inés de Vargas, in the Porta Coeli convent in Valladolid, a house of Dominican nuns. Another says his mummy is preserved there and is known locally as “las Calderonas”, though that name suggests it may refer to the family and not to him alone, and the point is unsettled. Of the man himself, the proverb is the plainest relic. It outlived the regime that destroyed him, and it keeps his name in use among people who have forgotten who he was.

Still there todayThe Plaza Mayor in Madrid, still enclosed by its uniform façades. See it on the Dark Atlas →
Sources
  • Wikipedia, 'Rodrigo Calderón, Count of Oliva' — born in Antwerp in 1576, secretary to the Duke of Lerma from 1598, the Queen Margaret witchcraft accusation after her death in childbirth in October 1611, Lerma's fall in 1618, torture and the confession to the 1614 murder of Francisco de Juaras, the execution order signed after the death of Philip III, the beheading in the Plaza Mayor on October 21, 1621, the cult of blood-stained relics. The page is internally inconsistent: it dates the arrest to January 1621, gives the Siete Iglesias title as both 1612 and 1614, and says he was both beheaded and hanged. The arrest date is treated as wrong
  • Hispanopedia (Spanish), 'Rodrigo Calderón' — arrest on the night of February 20, 1619 in his palace at Valladolid, imprisonment at Montánchez castle and then Madrid, the supposed torture, the confession to the killing of Juaras only, beheaded rather than hanged because of his rank, burial at the Porta Coeli convent, Valladolid, beside his wife Inés de Vargas, and the proverb 'más orgullo que don Rodrigo en la horca', which the page notes is odd because he was not hanged. A user-edited wiki, so used with care. It says nothing of the scaffold scene
  • Wehd.com, 1922 Reader's Biographical Encyclopaedia entry on Rodrigo Calderón — the scapegoat reading after Lerma's fall, torture reported on January 7, 1620, the hope of pardon until the bells tolled for Philip III in March 1621 ('He is dead, and I too am dead'), firmness and piety at the execution, public feeling turning in his favour, his wife's devotion. An old general reference work that hedges almost every claim ('reportedly', 'seems to')
  • El Objetivo (The Objective), 'La corrupción viene de lejos (II)' (October 23, 2021) — the execution in the Plaza Mayor, the beheading ('no fuera ahorcado, sino degollado'), the proverb said to come from his last moments, and the mummy at Porta Coeli known as 'las Calderonas'. It gives no date and no description of the crowd
  • Centro de Estudios Europa Hispánica (ceeh.es), publisher's note on the biography 'Rodrigo Calderón' — the long trial of 1619 with torture, the death sentence, the public execution in the Plaza Mayor on October 21, 1621, and Andrés de Almansa y Mendoza calling it 'the most famous day this century has seen'. A book blurb, so only a summary

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